The future of fragrance is becoming more human
Written by Tara Derakshan
Walking through the halls of Esxence this year, I expected to discover what was next for fragrance.
Instead, I found myself reflecting on why fragrance matters in the first place.
Every year, Esxence gathers the world's most visionary fragrance houses.
Perfumers.
Creators.
Storytellers.
But this year, something felt different.
Beyond the beautiful bottles and innovative ingredients, a deeper message emerged. The future of fragrance is becoming more human.
For years, perfume was often about projection.
How we wanted to be seen.
How we wanted to be remembered.
Today, fragrance is becoming something else.
A tool for connection.
A ritual of self-discovery.
A way to return to ourselves.
One theme appeared again and again:
People are no longer searching for a fragrance.
They are searching for a feeling.
The rise of comforting gourmand creations speaks to our desire for emotional safety.
Vanilla is no longer simply sweet. It has become a symbol of warmth, softness, and nostalgia.
Tea-inspired fragrances invite us into moments of mindfulness and presence.
A movement rooted in well-being rather than excess.
Meanwhile, rich amber, musk, and Middle Eastern-inspired creations continue to captivate the industry. Not simply because they are powerful, but because they create a sense of grounding.
A feeling of strength.
A connection to something timeless.
Another shift became impossible to ignore.
The disappearance of labels.
The future fragrance wearer is less interested in categories such as feminine or masculine. Instead, they are choosing scents that reflect energy, emotion, and identity.
Fragrance becomes an extension of the soul rather than a reflection of gender.
As both a fragrance founder and someone deeply interested in human transformation, I found myself returning to the same question throughout the fair:
What if fragrance was never meant to help us become someone else?
What if its true power lies in helping us remember who we already are?
The fragrances that leave the deepest imprint are not necessarily the loudest. They are the ones that make us feel something.
At NEH, this vision resonates deeply.
Because fragrance has never been about becoming someone else. It has always been about remembering who you are.
Fragrance is becoming more conscious.
More intentional.
More connected.
A future where scent becomes a mirror.
A guide.
A doorway into different states of being.
As I left Milan, one feeling remained.
The next chapter of fragrance is not being created in laboratories alone. It is being created within us.
One emotion.
One memory.
One moment of presence at a time.
And perhaps that is the greatest luxury of all.
With love,
Taraneh